Hello Harmattan!

Harmattan season is upon us --and I'm loving it! This is the few months when the strong desert winds from the north blow down and cool everything down. While everything is very dusty and people complain of sneezing attacks and very dry skin, I LOVE BEING COLD! Barely sweat on this morning's run and giggled with delight as I was FREEZING in the shower afterwards! Truly never thought I'd be cold here...or enjoy being cold so much!
Where did the last two weeks go? Time is really flying. And I can't believe it will be December tomorrow!
Two weeks ago (11/16)I went to the capital city of Lome for the annual artisan trade show, organized by fellow SED PCV's.  About 30 artisans from around the country , including my counterpart Aposto, came for the 4 day exposition where they were able to network with other artisans, showcase their products, (it was their first time to Lome for some of them), and were able to profit from the exposure.  A bunch of PCV's got a ride in a PC van Wednesday afternoon which made the 7 hour journey a bit more bareable. Because I was to present a topic on professional communication with the artisans Thursday morning, one of the event organizers arranged for some of us to stay with fellow American's who worked at the US Embassy. Thus, Wednesday night, I stayed in "America."

There are a few gated communities in Lome where the wealthy (ex-patriots, government and embassy workers) live.  We arrived late Wednesday night but when the taxi dropped us off and the security guard to our host's home greeted us, we knew we were in for a treat. Luckily our host was a former PCV who had also served in Africa, so he didn't mind and understood our 'ooh-ing and ahh-ing' over everything from the manicured lawn, marble and carpeted floors, American style furniture and of course the air conditioning and HOT running water. Wow. It was amazing. It was so clean and put together, I didn't realize I had forgotten just how great American homes feel.  We felt so dirty and awkward when he invited us to sit on the soft, beautiful furniture but we obliged and spent the next hour or so discussing PC, Togo and it's oddities, and how you come to appreciate life in the States so much more from this experience. One by one we excused ourselves to enjoy a hot shower in the western-style bathroom.  It was my first hot water shower since I left in June.  I stepped in and just stood there for a minute, trying to mentally prepare myself for what I was about to experience. This may seem silly to you, but after 6 months of cold bucket showers (and getting very excited when the random chance of running water was available) I really was dumbfounded. I squealed with delight and turned the nozzle to as hot as I could stand it.  What I think was even better was feeling REALLY clean afterwards; I didn't collect sand all over my feet walking back from the shower, and I didn't start sweating right away either.  I was so excited I called Michael but I didn't even have words to describe how amazing it had been.  We slept in soft, clean beds that night in a COLD air-conditioned room. Walking through the neighborhood the next morning on our way to the trade show, I sipped my freshly brewed Dunkin Donuts coffee (Lorena left me a to-go mug) and marveled at the yards and homes; it looked like a picture out of a magazine! Of course we were bummed we couldn't stay longer, another night --or forever :) - but so thankful for that tiny taste of home.
It's really hot in Lome. So hot and even more humid, that even the Togolese are dripping in sweat by 9am. And with most of the streets made of ankle deep sand, you just have to get used to feeling sweaty, dirty and gross all day. I helped Aposto set up his table and stand, beautifully displaying his handmade cloth, tshirts, bags and other things. I was so proud of him as his display was quite impressive and professional.  What's more, he is such an outgoing, friendly guy that all of the volunteers in town for the event and for the swearing-in of the new group of volunteers, know him and stopped by to say hi, order and buy things. By the end of the week he was known by all of the other artisans as he went around gathering and organizing everyone's contact information.  He was so proud to tell me that now he has friends all over Togo and has places to stay when he travels ( a big deal when the only road in the country is truly terrible and exhausting).
The days passed quickly; Vanessa and I presented our topic Thursday afternoon, we danced that night and had a great time at the swear-in party, I ventured across town to the Ghanian Embassy a few times for a Visa , helped Aposto sell at the show, surveyed clients for his business, and enjoyed time with my closest friends.  A couple of high points were visiting my friend Lucian's home in Agbodrafo which is about an hour east of Lome and right on the ocean, attempting to play soccer with PC staff at an event organized to celebrate volunteerism at the University of Lome, seeing Michael's face as we got to video Skype for the first time thanks to the PC office's wi-fi, and enjoying the rooftop pool (I splurged and treated myself) overlooking the ocean.
We tried not to spend too much money but when in Lome surrounded by food only found there (pizza and good wine, Vietnemese, Lebanese, etc) it's tough not to take advantage of the opportunity. Like my friend Connor said though, money literally disappears in Lome. We are used to spending 100-200 CFA (about 25 cents) on a meal in our villages and then to go and spend 4-5mille (about 8-10 dollars) on a pizza and glass of wine is troubling, but necessary I think. We had pizza one night and Vietnamese for a few meals -Aposto had his first egg roll last weekend and loved it!

Monday afternoon we took a taxi to the bus station which is an insane mess. Packed with people, old vans being loaded and piled high with goods and people. Even with having reserved tickets for this bus, we still had to wait over an hour to leave. Not only did the bus not have air conditioning like we had thought, but it only had small windows for ventilation and I just about lost it, I was so hot. We were destined to arrive into Sokode at midnight, but when we popped a tire about 45 minutes outside Lome I knew it was going to be a long night. Luckily there was a bar nearby.  Tuesday was a bit of a blur as you can imagine with only having a few hours of sleep after getting in at 1 that morning. I made it back to LT that night and collapsed.  Wednesday I collected data for the malaria campaign PC is working on at the hospital and clinic in LT and that afternoon I held my first English Club at the middle school.  I was very nervous that too many kids for me to handle would show up and it would be out of control, but it went surprisingly well.  About 35 kids came and we played a couple games, I taught them "If You're Happy And You Know It," we made the Club rules and I had them write down their names and what they would like to learn.
Thursday was Thanksgiving although it didn't really feel like it that morning as I surveyed my neighborhood with my host mom for the malaria campaign.  Headed 20 min south after lunch to join my friends and a bunch of PCV's who were gathering at a really nice hotel in Adjengre for Thanksgiving dinner. We all chipped in for a cook to make turkey (very expensive here) and mashed potatoes, and people signed up to bring stuffing, green bean casserole and pies.  We ate and ate and made ourselves miserable in good Thanksgiving fashion.  It was nice, but a bit sad for me after talking with my family back home. Like Vanessa put it: not the Thanksgiving that gives you the warm, fuzzy, family feelings you're used to getting at the holidays.
Vanessa and Lydia came back and spent the day in LT with me Friday and we made Aposto and Nima mac 'n' cheese for dinner with the Velveeta my grandma had sent.  They shared the giant papya from one of their trees and it was another tasty, satisfying meal! Before she left Saturday morning, Vanessa and I decorated the little foam Christmas tree for my living room (thank you Kelli Carlberg!).
This week I've got to write up a curriculum for the women's groups and the English club, finish up the information and data collection for the malaria survey, and evaluate the results of the trade show with Aposto.  He was invited to go to Benin (Country to the east of Togo) with PC staff to showcase and sell his batiked PC items and I will head back to Lome to represent and promote PC at the West African trade show.  Two weeks back in LT then it will be Christmas! Wow time flys..


Things about my life now that you may not know:
-I wear a dress everyday. I strongly prefer the light, loose, flowing material that they use here for outfits here; the less clothing touching my skin the better in the heat.
-I don't have a sink so I wash my hands and brush my teeth everyday like one would when they are camping.
-I sleep when the roosters and pintards (guinea fowl?) sleep. Some of the noisiest and most annoying creatures I know are a part of my host families animals. They squawk literally all day long; I can now tell what time it is in the morning just by the roosters-- I guess this means they're doing a good job! Even with earplugs, there is no sleeping past 6am at my house. Everyone shuts up when night falls at 6 so I've been going to bed between 730-8.
-I try to get one vegetable and fruit a day. For those of you who knew me well in the States, you would know this is a big deal as I used to eat at least 5 fruits/vegetables throughout the day. These are just so scarce here.  I buy as much as I can carry when I go to Sokode each week (carrots, beets, cabbage, avocados) and I stretch it to make it last as long as possible. I buy oranges, bananas, onions, and tomatoes in LT.  Apples are a treat as you can only find them further south and are even expensive there.
-I am an ant killer. They are everywhere, especially around water and this includes my water filter. No insect bothers me more- I think because there is never just one.
-I pull my own water from the family well. I use a chamber pot at night so I don't have to venture out to my latrine when I have to go to the bathroom. Yes, I feel like I'm living in the 1800s some days.
-I live by ziplock bags (ants) and my headlamp (electricity is rarely strong enough to power my the one light in my living room).
-I constantly look for shade and get very excited when there is a breeze.

On the move: Week of November 7th in review:

Wow last week was a busy week! I'm afraid that my slow mornings with my book and coffee may nearing their end. While this is good as it means I've found work to do, I am going to miss that leisure time in the morning. 

So even after Tabaski was 'officially' over (last Sunday the 6th) the rice and spaghetti encored as my mom continued to bring me plates and plates for each meal. Never been so sick of rice in my life.  I even began packing it in tupper wares and carrying it around with me for snacks.  Nima, Aposto's girlfried even joked and asked how my rice was in our morning greeting (the morning salutations usually included asking how your's house, patience, kids, health, etc. are in local language). I love Nima and Aposto because they make a bit of a joke about this with me each morning so I was impressed when she slipped rice in there!

Let's see, opening my planner (yes, to those of you who heard I hadn't been using one - it's back and stuffed as ever :)  I spent Monday finishing a 6 page catalogue for Aposto's batik business.  I was proud of this as it was no easy task using his archaic computer in his very hot gallery.  I've been working on it for a few days, taking lots of deep breaths as the computer continued to freeze every so often and sweat rolled down my sides.  He was very impressed and happy with it and thus I felt accomplished and useful!

Tuesday brought on a different feeling.  I decided to take the day off from working out as I had been going pretty hard for 7 days and while I wanted to bike that morning, I could tell my legs weren't recovered and I knew I needed to rest.  This did not set me up for a good day as I felt sluggish and out of it.  Being here for as long as I have, you begin to get used to the poverty all around you; you don't notice the shacks or the filthy-half-naked children. It all just becomes natural- I remember Lorena reacting to my reactions when I first arrived and was still a little in awe/baffled by all of it.  She would shrug her shoulders and say 'ya, that's what they do.' I can feel myself becoming that way.  However, Tuesday when I was biking home from Aposto's my 'natural lenses' were stripped off and I had this overwhelming feeling at seeing again all of the issues, problems, areas of improvement all around me.  Lately I've been passionate about hand washing so I had a crazy idea that I should visit all 7,000 people of LT in my 2 years teaching them how and the importance of this simple but vital concept. Ya, not overwhelming at all.  Then, stopping to visit my co-worker there were some kids eating rice with this big glob of orangish mush. Oh! I thought to myself- could it be sweet potatoes? No no, my co-worker said, that's the grease from the cow fat left over from Tabaski.  Ugh. So I must spread the nutrition word; I must teach the importance of a balanced diet!  Walking a little further, I passed the Moringa trees (miracle trees- google it) and got up the guts to ask the mama if she actually uses the tree, if it's just for her, etc.  Of course she doesn't speak French- and neither do I for that matter- but luckily a middle school aged boy was around and he assisted as much as he could.  I walked off feeling more confused and adding pressure to myself of spreading the Moringa message.  

Arriving home, my host brothers are doing their homework while my host sister is working (carrying water, cleaning, preparing dinner, etc.).  This is a very common thing here -something I've watched over and over but at that point I thought to myself- Oh! I must educate them on the importance of girls going to school, sharing chores so she has an equal chance.  Maybe I should help her with her homework each night. And then I just cracked.  I got up one step of my porch and just started sobbing.  I can't do all of this. I can't make sure this entire town washes their hands before they eat, prepare more nutritious meals and treat girls equal to boys (just to mention a few). There is no way; there are too many issues and not enough of me or time. I'm not going to save these people and I'm not going to save LT.  Yes, we tell ourselves this all the time, but it really hit me that night.  As I was talking and crying to Michael later, he made a very good point.  I was crying, for the first time, because I was overwhelmed with the work and the need here. Whereas before when I would get upset in the first three months is was because I didn't know what to do, how to start, if I was even needed here. Huh-- what a change. I took a deep breath and realized that I've made it though one mindset change, I'll surely survive another as I continue to figure this whole adventure out.  To add to all of that, my water filter fell off the ledge on my porch and one of the purifying candles inside broke rendering my filter useless.  While boiling water and thinking far enough ahead so its cooled off by the time you want to drink it is not fun, I have been enjoying buying COLD Pure Waters (the purified water sachets you can buy everywhere) from the two stores with refrigerators here in LT. 

Wednesday was interesting.  I had a sunrise run as Aposto wanted to hit the road early.  We spent the morning delivering notebooks and school supplies to tiny schools and villages on a dirt road going east of of LT.  As we bumped along on the motorcycle, passing people walking into bush (I'm sure to their homes, but it was so desolate it was hard to tell) and I thought to myself, 'wow, it doesn't get much more Africa than this.'  Our first stop was at these two lean-to type shacks made of dried palm other tree leaves where two teachers (volunteers) were leading two classes of about 15 students each.  We gave each teacher a notebook and they were so grateful you'd have thought we were passing out salaries.  Eye-opening moment.  We continued in this fashion, going deeper into the bush, passing out notebooks for each of the teachers at each stop.  After about 5 stops like this we finally arrived at the school where we had supplies for kids who had lost a parent.   I was happy the NGO was able to provide a bit for these kids (about 20), but it just killed me to watch as the rest of the kids watched with big eyes.  These were definitely some of the poorest people I've seen so far. Kids in rags, some with half a tattered khaki uniform on, sandals with more bare feet on the bottom than material. Sadly, I was ready to get out of there. If the thought of those kids having to walk that far or find a ride to continue on to middle school wasn't disturbing enough, seeing them in their reality killed me.

Thursday I ventured off to Sokode as I has to pick up the dress I was having made for my co-workers wedding on Friday.  I ran all my errands via my bike: bank, post office, market for vegetables and bread and fetching my dress. It all went so smoothly and according to plan that I was wondering what was about to go wrong.  I met Rebekah for a late breakfast at a restaurant that serves yogurt. Had about 2 hours at the new PC workstation, hoping to get some things updated on Aposto's blog.  After it took over an hour to load 5 pictures, I had to go and left without one thing accomplished. Ahh.. yes, I'm in Africa.

Thursday afternoon and evening made up for it as my host mom summoned me over as she was dying her feet with a local plant she had added water to to create a paste.  Muslim women dye the outer edge of their feet orange and then black to symbolize a holiday or celebration.  I described it to Michael that it's sort of like when people wear Christmas looking things in December...sort of.  As I sat there and she patted the paste on I closed my eyes and took a deep breath and enjoyed the warm breeze.  It was so peaceful.  And the closest thing I've had to a pedicure or a massage in a long time! It also forced me to stay put and rest on my porch while it dried, which as much as I enjoy this is sometimes still difficult when I know I've got other things to do.  It had dried enough by 5 so that I could go over to my French tutor's house as his kids had insisted on me coming over so we could make dinner together.  This family runs like a well oiled machine.  Three girls and three boys and everyone has a job.  The best part is they all know their job and they do it without talking much and definitely without complaining (not how I remember Maddie and I's chore routine going growing up).  I just sat there (tried to help a little- they let me slice the tops off of tomatoes) and took it all in. Reminded me of a team of ants: quiet, determined and hard-working.  From peeling, slicing and boiling a giant yam they had grown in their field, mashing the ingredients for the sauce into a paste (tomatoes, peanuts, onions, peppers) using one flat stone and one round (I told them we have machines for that too), and then mashing the yams to create fufu, we finally ate 3 hours later. 

I had two requirements for the meal. First, everyone must wash their hands with soap before we ate. Two, everyone will eat together - as a family.  Usually the man is served first and eats by himself or with older boys, and the kids just sprawl wherever- door frames, on a random stool-wherever they can find a seat. I insisted that we would eat as a family and while they looked at me funny and rolled their eyes, they managed to put two small tables together and crowd around. I was so proud and they just laughed.  Then I shared my Grandma's oatmeal raisin cookies with them which were a hit and I think may have made up for the regulations I made them follow at dinner.

Friday morning my friend Hortance had become pretty sick and I spotted her on the road headed to the private clinic to begin treatment for malaria.  My first time witnessing the IV process here.  Not too bad.  Hortance needed to eat first so we went to fetch some pate- the local cuisine made of crushed corn- around the corner. I was disappointed that even at a clinic the food (I'll never complain about hospital food ever again!) wasn't more nutritious that what everyone eats.  Same empty pate and fish sauce.  UGH. I suggested they could use enriched cornmeal (add crushed peanuts of Morenga powder) and they smiled politely.  Hortance got hooked up and I proceed onto the hospital for the weekly baby weighing.

I had tried to mentally prepare more for the malnourished and overwhelming amount of babies and time the process takes.  Of course when I get there only about a third of the women from last week had showed up.  I learned that it was because a lot of the moms only come once a month and/or when their baby is up for a vaccine. Of course the tiny ones I had my eye out for were not there. I did however encounter my first pregnant mom (only 23) who was HIV positive.  I sat in awe as the nurse pleaded with her to take the medicine she was giving her so that it wouldn't be passed on to the baby.  I even stayed in the room to hold her wailing toddler while the nurse examined her. Wow- only in Africa. The nurse asked if I had anything to tell her and I just tried to reemphasize what she had said: take the meds, get your other child tested, and make sure you sleep under your mosquito net.

That afternoon was the wedding I'd been anticipating.  On my way home there must have been 5 people stop to ask me if I was going (they LOVE my dyed feet) and to make sure I wear my 'costume'- the dress in the matching fabric with everyone else.  This was funny to me-- they had to be sure I was dressed appropriately!  I waited for my mom and we didn't leave to walk down the path to the wedding at the woman's home until an hour after it was suppose to start. Already confused, but I went with it.  The women (probably close to 75) went nuts seeing me dressed up with a traditional African style hat tied on my head, a veil my mom had given me to over  that, and the black eyebrows she had painted on. I was quite a site. Everyone sat on mats on the ground in a semi-circle, the women of course separated from the men.  Three guys banged drums and everyone threw candy at them. The Gado, my co-worker came out with her female family crowded around her and we threw even more candy. Then we gave candy to her mom and more loud dancing, singing and things I'm sure I didn't catch continued on. Then it was time to move and everyone headed to her new husbands house down the road. It was literally like a wedding parade.  Easily 150 people, the moto drivers of LT directed what little traffic that could fit past us.  They presented Gado to her husband and some important looking men, took her suitcase in her house and that was pretty much it. The majority of the people left but a few mamas held onto me and drug me behind the house where there was a small dance party. I did my best to dance with the drums and then people threw candy at me!  Luckily it ended quickly but everywhere I go now people talk about me dancing. Word travels fast-even in little villages in Africa.  All that hype and anticipation for about an hour of activity. Well, I guess that's kind of what it's like in the States? I asked Aposto and the non-Muslims would have the same ceremony but also a party afterwards.

Saturday morning, a PCVL visited to spend the day in LT and observe my life here.  Ben, is a health volunteer and also the national organizer for the summer camp for kids affected by HIV/AIDS (Camp Espoir).  His French is awesome and so as I showed him around he could talk to people and explain more about why I'm here and the work I hope to do. This was especially helpful at the clinic and hospital where I had had struggles with the director.  So thankful for Ben's time here. Helping me establish more credibility and understanding.  We visited Aposto and the market for some traditional Saturday afternoon tchouk.

Sunday I headed south to Sotoboua (about 45 min) to help with the monthly Club Espoir- a continuation of the summer camp.  Twenty eager kids- all very familiar with PCV's, camp songs and games- spent the morning singing and dancing.  I watched as the three Togolese adult leaders explained the days lesson of HIV/AIDS to the group of 10-17 year olds.  
Gave me ideas for working with kids and groups and good ways to present material.  After a hot and detour filled car ride back where I got to show off a bit of my local language, I made it back to LT and got organized for another busy week!

Two weeks in review...

Passion Ignited
The last week of October the people from my training group (who I will refer to as ‘stagemates’ – stage is French for training) met in Pagala for a week of technical training.  While Pagala is very humid and damp, it was like being on a mini-vacation; surrounded by my closest friends, enjoying running water and an abundance of delicious food prepared by the PC kitchen staff. The week started off slow for me as some of the sessions I didn’t feel pertained to my interests or the realities of the possible work in LT. For example: teaching kids how to use computers (there are no computers in LT) or helping groups become official nonprofits (there is only one nonprofit in LT that I already work with). Not to say this isn’t important and meaningful work; just not what got me fired up.   Then God intervened when a PCV presented on the new Malaria Initiative for W. Africa. Through that and further discussion with other Volunteers in regard to health work, I felt my passion being reignited and my inspiration to work and make an impact in LT being stirred up! It was really encouraging and refreshing.  I proceeded to make a list of possible projects as the week went on (creating a hand washing campaign, creating a health group at school, teaching the women’s groups to make enriched flour), spending time looking through the PC Health Sector handbook for ideas and to get a better grasp on the health system of Togo. I even noted in my journal that day “coffee isn’t necessary if you’re doing the right work- the work should motivate/inspire and drive your passion naturally. (For those of you who know me well, go ahead and laugh now ) Needing to process my thoughts, I confided in a PCVL (Peace Corps Volunteer Leader—someone staying for a 3rd year) who was a health volunteer and he was really encouraging, giving me ideas and offering suggestions for getting started.  He also reminded me that the work and the projects must be what my community wants and needs and I must keep that in mind as I ‘plan out’ my next steps.
However, I’ve been to enough conferences/seminars/workshops to know that the real challenge is taking that excitement and inspiration and turning into action once you get back to real life.  This was on my mind and something I was really worried about all week and I tried to keep God in the forefront, asking Him to help me trust in His plan and that He would show me the way as He has done so many times in the past. Then a few of us went for a run Thursday morning.  We took a specific route that I knew was going to be uphill the entire way.  One of those runs where you check your watch every 5 minutes and wonder if you’re really this out of shape and how much longer you can push on.  Finally it was time to turn around and God just lit up the second half for me.  My friend Veronica (a very talented runner) and I were flying down the hill; it felt so effortless and gave me a newfound confidence.   We were now heading east and the sun was peeking out of the mountains, battling the fog that had settled in overnight.  It was absolutely breathtaking. The Third Day song on my Ipod, the sun bright and beautiful, and the fog holding steady so you couldn’t see too far ahead; an incredible God moment.  I knew He was there and I chuckled to myself that I had forgotten during the struggle and during the week that this journey isn’t all about me or for me.  God instilled this passion to work and live in another culture in me a long time ago, He’s brought me to Togo, and He’s led me this far through this adventure.  I’ve got to trust that He’s got the plans laid out and He will show me the way as I struggle to figure things out and turn ideas and inspiration into action.

It was a really hard run.  The downhill coast was more challenging as my Vero was pushing a sub-8 minute mile pace.  At one point I thought about letting her go, and just going at my own pace. But then I realized I don’t get to run with people very often, and you don’t become a better runner by going at at the same pace all the time.  You don’t get better or gain anything if you don’t endure the struggle. As we hitting the homestretch and I was pretty whipped, I thought back to my basketball days in High School and my mom always saying, “Leave it all on the floor; don’t hold anything back and be able to say after the game that you gave it everything you had.”  I smiled at that memory and rolled my shoulders back and pressed on to keep up with Vero.  Struggle leads to change, which leads to growth, which leads to progress. Whether it be in basketball, early morning runs in Africa, or two years serving the people of  Togo, I’ve got to leave it all out there – give it all I’ve got and allow God to lead me.

At the end of the week, I made a poster; a visual aid to remind myself of the week.  My ideas and excitement from the week are spread out all of the paper with the people who can help me and I can reach connected to each idea in the center.  It’s going in my living room, right above my new desk! 


We are who we are. 
The Diversity Committee is a really great group started recently by PCV’s here in Togo.  Their mission is to help volunteers feel safe, comfortable, and confident in who they are by leading diversity training sessions with staff and volunteers.  Our Diversity Session during our weeklong training focused on identifying who we are in the different aspects of our lives- both in the U.S. and here in Togo. For example: What identity most defines you in Togo? The answer options were posted on signs all around the area: gender/sex, religion, soci-economic status, age.  We then stood by whichever sign you felt pertains to your answer to the question.  It was a fascinating activity as I realized I’ve become more aware of my personal identity since being here than ever before in the States. I’ve become more aware of America’s diversity as well by coming to Togo. I was so thankful for the session as it gave our group the chance to learn more about each other and gain a deeper respect and understanding of who each of us is.  A really cool moment.  Ironically, we pointed out that even as we know that each individual is different and unique, we are sometimes at fault for seeing all Togolese people as the same.  We naturally lump people into groups; we do it the States, and I know I’m guilty of doing it here.  Those few hours were powerful; not only for bringing our stage closer but for making that very important point that we must try to see and treat people as the unique, special individuals they are. We aren’t all the same  - in America or in Togo and like my mom says, "it's what makes the world go 'round!"

Eye-opening moments:
This past week Aposto was gone in Lome and after the training in Pagala I was inspired to go out on my own and explore LT a bit more.  Tuesday was the All Saints day celebration at the church. The three hour service also included a large baptism of babies dressed in white.  Tchouk followed after of course! Wednesday I met my French teacher at the middle school which is about 2 minutes from my house. He took me to meet the director who then introduced me to the other teachers in the staff meeting in their 'teachers lounge' (aka the newly constructed hut).  I sat in on a few of my teacher's English classes both Wednesday and Thursday and was blown away. Not only does the shell of the cement classrooms sadly resemble packed, sweaty and hot bush taxi's that serve as our only mode of transportation, but the students have no books. Packed three to a desk with at least 100 kids in each room, the teacher writes things on the board from the one book they have and the kids meticulously copy and memorize it and that's their lesson- that's what they take home and study at night.
Friday morning I went to the weekly baby weighing and vaccination at the hospital (again a cement shell of a building with a few examination and recovery rooms). For four hours the one nurse patiently saw at least 30 mothers -some with babies they had just delivered the night before, a lot who were 3-4 months old, 5 sets of twins (poor mamas!), and some little ones who were sick and not at the weight they should be. It was exhausting and overwhelming.  I couldn't help but think how many other women were out there who had infants and weren't bringing them in. Or what about the ones who are underweight? The nurse yells at the mom to do better but they won't or don't have the means to step in until the child falls even further behind. What can I do? Follow the mom to her house? Show her how to make enriched flour or bouie that they feed the older babies? AHH! I felt so frustrated and helpless especially with my lack of health vocabulary. But still I'm excited to go back and help again on Friday, slowly earning the mama's trust and hopefully one day leading informational sessions for them on nutrition and sanitation while they wait to see the nurse.

Yesterday was Tabaski- the Muslim holiday that follows Ramadan. It consists of more cooking and eating. It's very interesting as the women all prepare the same things (fufu, rice, spaghetti) with different sauces and then spend all day sharing it with others. So my mom sits in her cooking hut dishing up plates while the kids run the bowls of various things to friends and family in the neighborhood, all while accepting the same food coming in from others! Thankfully, this is a day I don't have to worry about cooking-- and I just look at is as a large carb-load for a big bike ride (last night) and run (this am). Even cooler, yesterday afternoon, the kids walked in the compound with a quarter of a cow on their head- one hoof, half the nose, skin- EVERYTHING. I sat in awe as my mom and the kids cut it all up and cooked it over the fire.  Pretty sure I've had a lot of stomach, intestines, liver and who knows what else in the past few hours... I just tell myself it's valuable protein and to chew fast! 


This week will be busy; working on marketing things for Aposto and the business as the Trade Show is next week in Lome. Also need to get organized for the malaria survey I'm conducting at the end of November in LT, and one of my co-workers is getting married on Thurs/Friday...so that will be an experience I'm sure too!
Also, weather is heating up here- so strange as I'm so used to  the temps dropping off back home for the holidays. It sure doesn't feel like Christmas is coming...but that didn't stop me from jamming to some Christmas music on my bike ride last night!


Good things. Answered prayers of needing to feel needed, useful, busy here in LT. God continues to bless me with wonderful, kind people to work with and I try to seek His guidance and trust His plans-- day by day!