Hello Harmattan!

Harmattan season is upon us --and I'm loving it! This is the few months when the strong desert winds from the north blow down and cool everything down. While everything is very dusty and people complain of sneezing attacks and very dry skin, I LOVE BEING COLD! Barely sweat on this morning's run and giggled with delight as I was FREEZING in the shower afterwards! Truly never thought I'd be cold here...or enjoy being cold so much!
Where did the last two weeks go? Time is really flying. And I can't believe it will be December tomorrow!
Two weeks ago (11/16)I went to the capital city of Lome for the annual artisan trade show, organized by fellow SED PCV's.  About 30 artisans from around the country , including my counterpart Aposto, came for the 4 day exposition where they were able to network with other artisans, showcase their products, (it was their first time to Lome for some of them), and were able to profit from the exposure.  A bunch of PCV's got a ride in a PC van Wednesday afternoon which made the 7 hour journey a bit more bareable. Because I was to present a topic on professional communication with the artisans Thursday morning, one of the event organizers arranged for some of us to stay with fellow American's who worked at the US Embassy. Thus, Wednesday night, I stayed in "America."

There are a few gated communities in Lome where the wealthy (ex-patriots, government and embassy workers) live.  We arrived late Wednesday night but when the taxi dropped us off and the security guard to our host's home greeted us, we knew we were in for a treat. Luckily our host was a former PCV who had also served in Africa, so he didn't mind and understood our 'ooh-ing and ahh-ing' over everything from the manicured lawn, marble and carpeted floors, American style furniture and of course the air conditioning and HOT running water. Wow. It was amazing. It was so clean and put together, I didn't realize I had forgotten just how great American homes feel.  We felt so dirty and awkward when he invited us to sit on the soft, beautiful furniture but we obliged and spent the next hour or so discussing PC, Togo and it's oddities, and how you come to appreciate life in the States so much more from this experience. One by one we excused ourselves to enjoy a hot shower in the western-style bathroom.  It was my first hot water shower since I left in June.  I stepped in and just stood there for a minute, trying to mentally prepare myself for what I was about to experience. This may seem silly to you, but after 6 months of cold bucket showers (and getting very excited when the random chance of running water was available) I really was dumbfounded. I squealed with delight and turned the nozzle to as hot as I could stand it.  What I think was even better was feeling REALLY clean afterwards; I didn't collect sand all over my feet walking back from the shower, and I didn't start sweating right away either.  I was so excited I called Michael but I didn't even have words to describe how amazing it had been.  We slept in soft, clean beds that night in a COLD air-conditioned room. Walking through the neighborhood the next morning on our way to the trade show, I sipped my freshly brewed Dunkin Donuts coffee (Lorena left me a to-go mug) and marveled at the yards and homes; it looked like a picture out of a magazine! Of course we were bummed we couldn't stay longer, another night --or forever :) - but so thankful for that tiny taste of home.
It's really hot in Lome. So hot and even more humid, that even the Togolese are dripping in sweat by 9am. And with most of the streets made of ankle deep sand, you just have to get used to feeling sweaty, dirty and gross all day. I helped Aposto set up his table and stand, beautifully displaying his handmade cloth, tshirts, bags and other things. I was so proud of him as his display was quite impressive and professional.  What's more, he is such an outgoing, friendly guy that all of the volunteers in town for the event and for the swearing-in of the new group of volunteers, know him and stopped by to say hi, order and buy things. By the end of the week he was known by all of the other artisans as he went around gathering and organizing everyone's contact information.  He was so proud to tell me that now he has friends all over Togo and has places to stay when he travels ( a big deal when the only road in the country is truly terrible and exhausting).
The days passed quickly; Vanessa and I presented our topic Thursday afternoon, we danced that night and had a great time at the swear-in party, I ventured across town to the Ghanian Embassy a few times for a Visa , helped Aposto sell at the show, surveyed clients for his business, and enjoyed time with my closest friends.  A couple of high points were visiting my friend Lucian's home in Agbodrafo which is about an hour east of Lome and right on the ocean, attempting to play soccer with PC staff at an event organized to celebrate volunteerism at the University of Lome, seeing Michael's face as we got to video Skype for the first time thanks to the PC office's wi-fi, and enjoying the rooftop pool (I splurged and treated myself) overlooking the ocean.
We tried not to spend too much money but when in Lome surrounded by food only found there (pizza and good wine, Vietnemese, Lebanese, etc) it's tough not to take advantage of the opportunity. Like my friend Connor said though, money literally disappears in Lome. We are used to spending 100-200 CFA (about 25 cents) on a meal in our villages and then to go and spend 4-5mille (about 8-10 dollars) on a pizza and glass of wine is troubling, but necessary I think. We had pizza one night and Vietnamese for a few meals -Aposto had his first egg roll last weekend and loved it!

Monday afternoon we took a taxi to the bus station which is an insane mess. Packed with people, old vans being loaded and piled high with goods and people. Even with having reserved tickets for this bus, we still had to wait over an hour to leave. Not only did the bus not have air conditioning like we had thought, but it only had small windows for ventilation and I just about lost it, I was so hot. We were destined to arrive into Sokode at midnight, but when we popped a tire about 45 minutes outside Lome I knew it was going to be a long night. Luckily there was a bar nearby.  Tuesday was a bit of a blur as you can imagine with only having a few hours of sleep after getting in at 1 that morning. I made it back to LT that night and collapsed.  Wednesday I collected data for the malaria campaign PC is working on at the hospital and clinic in LT and that afternoon I held my first English Club at the middle school.  I was very nervous that too many kids for me to handle would show up and it would be out of control, but it went surprisingly well.  About 35 kids came and we played a couple games, I taught them "If You're Happy And You Know It," we made the Club rules and I had them write down their names and what they would like to learn.
Thursday was Thanksgiving although it didn't really feel like it that morning as I surveyed my neighborhood with my host mom for the malaria campaign.  Headed 20 min south after lunch to join my friends and a bunch of PCV's who were gathering at a really nice hotel in Adjengre for Thanksgiving dinner. We all chipped in for a cook to make turkey (very expensive here) and mashed potatoes, and people signed up to bring stuffing, green bean casserole and pies.  We ate and ate and made ourselves miserable in good Thanksgiving fashion.  It was nice, but a bit sad for me after talking with my family back home. Like Vanessa put it: not the Thanksgiving that gives you the warm, fuzzy, family feelings you're used to getting at the holidays.
Vanessa and Lydia came back and spent the day in LT with me Friday and we made Aposto and Nima mac 'n' cheese for dinner with the Velveeta my grandma had sent.  They shared the giant papya from one of their trees and it was another tasty, satisfying meal! Before she left Saturday morning, Vanessa and I decorated the little foam Christmas tree for my living room (thank you Kelli Carlberg!).
This week I've got to write up a curriculum for the women's groups and the English club, finish up the information and data collection for the malaria survey, and evaluate the results of the trade show with Aposto.  He was invited to go to Benin (Country to the east of Togo) with PC staff to showcase and sell his batiked PC items and I will head back to Lome to represent and promote PC at the West African trade show.  Two weeks back in LT then it will be Christmas! Wow time flys..


Things about my life now that you may not know:
-I wear a dress everyday. I strongly prefer the light, loose, flowing material that they use here for outfits here; the less clothing touching my skin the better in the heat.
-I don't have a sink so I wash my hands and brush my teeth everyday like one would when they are camping.
-I sleep when the roosters and pintards (guinea fowl?) sleep. Some of the noisiest and most annoying creatures I know are a part of my host families animals. They squawk literally all day long; I can now tell what time it is in the morning just by the roosters-- I guess this means they're doing a good job! Even with earplugs, there is no sleeping past 6am at my house. Everyone shuts up when night falls at 6 so I've been going to bed between 730-8.
-I try to get one vegetable and fruit a day. For those of you who knew me well in the States, you would know this is a big deal as I used to eat at least 5 fruits/vegetables throughout the day. These are just so scarce here.  I buy as much as I can carry when I go to Sokode each week (carrots, beets, cabbage, avocados) and I stretch it to make it last as long as possible. I buy oranges, bananas, onions, and tomatoes in LT.  Apples are a treat as you can only find them further south and are even expensive there.
-I am an ant killer. They are everywhere, especially around water and this includes my water filter. No insect bothers me more- I think because there is never just one.
-I pull my own water from the family well. I use a chamber pot at night so I don't have to venture out to my latrine when I have to go to the bathroom. Yes, I feel like I'm living in the 1800s some days.
-I live by ziplock bags (ants) and my headlamp (electricity is rarely strong enough to power my the one light in my living room).
-I constantly look for shade and get very excited when there is a breeze.