Joyeux Noel – Merry Christmas! As my friend Vanessa says, “one for the books.”
My first Christmas away from home and without freezing temperatures and snow fared pretty well. Vanessa and I are together at the PCV house/workstation in Atakpame which is about 4 hours south of LT. The house has all the coveted amenities: running water, refrigerator, toaster oven, shelves of old movies and books from past PCV’s. Best of all – it’s just me and Ness here. So it was a quiet, mellow lazy day.
I was planning to take the day off from running but after the call to prayer from the nearby mosque went on for an extra thirty minutes at 5 am this morning, I decided to go for a quick out and back around Atakpame. In the States I usually try and run on Christmas morning; sneaking out after we open stockings and while my family is getting ready to go to my grandma’s house. I smiled, stepping out into the dawn of a new day in Togo, thinking about how different this Christmas run will be.
As I stepped out onto the road, I thought about the change in scenery; flat, open, snow-covered Iowa fields traded in this Christmas for the rocky hills of this “city” in Togo. Freezing temperatures and snow piles for humidity and palm trees. Avoiding wandering goats instead of dangerous icy spots. Breathing in burning trash and diesel exhaust rather than cool, crisp, clean Iowa air. Enjoying the contrast of elevation from Iowa as I manage my way up the steep hills of the Atakpame coast on the descent.
Some things stay the same though, I thought to myself. I passed people freshly showered (good smells are a rare luxury here) and on their way to Christmas Mass. People donned in puffy coats and stocking hats as they zipped by on their motorcycles–it’s cold here right now you know (77 ˚F to be exact). And knowing I was going back to a hot cup of real coffee (thank you Rachel Kennedy) made me smile realizing we’re all not that different. Interesting too how the day seemed to go on like just another day. The song that talks about no snow down in Africa -with the chorus “Do they Know it’s Christmastime at all” popped into my head as truck drivers loaded up their semi’s, mama’s carried huge basins of water from the local pump to their homes on their heads, and as people stood outside their doors, cleaning their teeth with wooden sticks. I guess, I thought to myself, things like this go on in the States too – people not recognizing the special day, but being in Togo has made incredibly more aware of the differences – and similarities, an aspect I really value in this experience.
As if on cue, Togo brought me out of my dreamy like state and back into the real world as my host dad called me- not to wish me a Merry Christmas- but to ask again if I could buy him a computer when I’m in the States. A running joke (sort of) with Togolese— we are always suppose to bring them things. (For example: I told one guy I would bring him back a wife.)
Ness and I made pancakes for breakfast and it was just like home as she was itching to open the package my mom had sent and clearly labeled, “do not open before Christmas.” We slowly pulled out the chocolate treats one by one. We found "A Christmas Carol" among the stacks of DVD’s and we popped that in and enjoyed our mini candy bars-tastes of home. The night before we had made some Christmas crafts, watched "It’s a Wonderful Life" and enjoyed a pizza with real cheese (stores here carry Swiss!).
We continued our craft making and planned our Christmas dinner. Ness made a traditional dish with plantains and meat. I crafted my first pie crust and somehow our apple pie disappeared quickly (it was small). A package of stuffing and a nice bottle of wine rounded out our Christmas dinner. It was simple and sweet. Trying to go three-for-three with the holiday movies we popped in “Noel” which you’ve probably never heard of because it was that bad!
A simple day, Ness and I talked about the simple things we have really come to appreciate over dinner. Our health, time with our families, the power of a shower were at the top of the list. The discussion continued on what we’ve learned as far as ‘development’ goes and the similarities and contrasts of Togo. As we marveled that 2011 is coming to a close I asked her what are the top three lessons she’s learned – or how she has grown this year. The top of my list: learning how to really listen and the value in that, growing tolerance with a place that can be so backwards and with myself in changing and adapting with the work here and my performance/success, awareness of myself -my body and health- and my surroundings, and my appreciativeness of the simple things.
A truly Joyeux Noel! Part of my story and one for the books…
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